Shamrock Tour^®: Bardstown, Kentucky

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Fields of corn, rye, barley, and wheat rise from the Kentucky soil. Throughout summer the crops mature and showers fall, trickling down to the water table. Along its way back to the surface, flowing through subterranean limestone formations, the stream is purified and stripped of bitter-tasting iron. To a master distiller in these parts, around the small city of Bards-town, this water, the grains, and time comprise the major ingredients that create many a tippler's drink of choice: bourbon whiskey.

Through an Act of Congress in 1964, Kentucky Bourbon was established as America's Official Native Spirit. With the exception of Scotch perhaps, there's probably no other distillate as inextricably linked to a particular locale. In no specific order, when one thinks of Kentucky, the mind turns up images of thoroughbreds, rippling bluegrass, and those amber libations poured from bottles bearing the names of Jim Beam, Evan Williams, Elijah Craig, and other patient Kentucky gentlemen.

Day 1: Narrow Lanes

A beautiful September morning greets Florian Neuhauser, RoadRUNNER's Customer Service Manager, and me as we fire up our bikes (he's riding a Triumph Tiger and I, a Honda 599). We head out of Bardstown, generally meandering down a laid-back, warm-up route east. The tempo increases in pleasant curves once we turn south on Route 55, where the narrow two-lane begins to offer just enough challenge to keep us on our toes. In and out of trees, we sweep across low, rolling land planted with corn and tobacco. The early fall weather is just right for riding, and the farming scene soon changes to roads lined with tidy post-and-rail fences retaining beautiful, robust horses that lazily graze on the mineral-rich grass.

Out of nowhere, zipping over the Route 68 bridge spanning the slow-moving Kentucky River, we're tossed into a tight mixture of curves before we have a chance to enjoy a view of the steep limestone cliffs above the placid water. The pavement catapults us from the river valley and has the Tiger and the 599 swinging to and fro like a country fiddler's bow. Florian and I are all grins when we take a break at the top of the hill.

Finding Route 169 out of Nicholasville, we quickly plummet into another section near the Kentucky River, where a small paddlewheel ferryboat is chugging our way to give us a lift to the other side. Keeping the traffic moving here since 1785, the Valley View Ferry is the oldest continuously operated business in the state, and the ride across is free thanks to federal and state grants.

Down the road, we stop at Woody's Restaurant and Bar in Richmond, the home of Eastern Kentucky University, and after, turn west for an afternoon filled with relaxing scenery, empty roads, and fun curves on the return to Bardstown.

Once back in our lodgings at the Best Western General Nelson, we head straight for the pool. And while we're taking our ease in the fading rays, our good friend and colleague Paul Cook arrives from Florida, having just driven some 900 miles to join us for the next two days of riding.

Day 2: By the Ohio River

Paul falls in with us on his Gold Wing as we take off into the cool morning. On our way northwest for a rendezvous with the Ohio River, the bright sunshine and intermittent patches of fog create close-set pockets of warmth and coolness that give me the impression we're riding across the vents of a gigantic AC unit. By the time we reach Clermont, the sun has finally won out.

Bearing south along the Ohio River and skirting the perimeter of Fort Knox, time that I spend plotting a heist script for Hollywood, we pass another secure site on the army base: the Patton Museum of Cavalry and Armor. Then, picking up Route 228 in Brandenburg, we roll out across a high ridge overlooking the Ohio River. The morning haze still lingering over the water veils our westward view, eerily dimming the distant Indiana farmland.

As we continue along the east side of the river, the road is all ours. Easy twists and turns rule the day as we dart past groves of hardwood, cornfields, and cows. The scenery isn't at all that spectacular, but the air of peace and quiet has soothing appeal. After gassing up in Fordsville, we stop in at The Diner downtown (nonsmokers beware: there's no relief inside).

For the better part of the day, we've pretty much been the only wheels kicking up the dust in these parts, and the rest of the afternoon is spent gliding another series of nearly deserted lanes.

Back in Bardstown, cleaned-up, thirsty, and ready to eat again, we walk to the historic Old Talbott Tavern for a recommendable dinner. And since the night is still young and the walk so short, we all settle at the bar for a private seminar about the local specialty. The variety of bourbons installed behind the Old Talbott bar is overwhelming; but a well-versed staff is on hand to guide initiates and experts alike on a tasting tour. Happily sated by our meals and a few smoky sips, we trundle home to bed.

Day 3: Lincoln Lore and Shady Groves

We leave Bardstown, going south into another bright, cool morning. The landscape opens out onto rolling hills and fields of tobacco and corn. Daylight gleams upon the dew and a misty haze skims the shaded creek bottoms. A little north of Hodgenville on Route 31E, we pull off the road at Knob Creek, near a tiny one-room cabin, an exact replica of the one Abraham Lincoln lived in for five of his boyhood years. Here, on the Lincoln family farm, young Abe once fell into the rain-swollen creek, and, if not for a long stick and the quick thinking of his playmate, Austin Golliher, our sixteenth president would have borne a different name and legacy.

Our ride continues south, leading us through several charming tableaus of small-town life in Hodgenville and Munfordville. Soon, tucked into the deep forest that is Mammoth Cave National Park, we wind along on incredibly smooth blacktop that would be a veritable twist-fest but for the park-wide, 35mph speed limit clamping down on a rider's right wrist. These quiet woods offer an enjoyable ramble through the wilderness nonetheless, and another free ferry ride across the serene Green River is a pleasant bonus.

A trip to this part of Central Kentucky would not be complete without seeing the limestone spectacle of Mammoth Cave, the longest cave system in the world, extending more than 360 miles. Home to 130 species of animals, including the endangered Kentucky cave shrimp, the site was also inhabited and mined by men more than 4,000 years ago. Today almost two million people visit Mammoth Cave Park each year. But since many of the tours are several hours long and times differ during the year, make sure you call ahead for the latest information to schedule a trip.

Close to the park, in Brownsville, we dive into three helpings of deep-fried comfort food at Laura's Hilltop Restaurant. Glowering thunderclouds release a smattering of raindrops as we reach the parking lot; and, looking up, I know that I'll be hard-pressed to outrun anything, not now, with this belly-full of catfish. Oh well, it's hightail it or get wet. None of us are packing raingear. Working toward Leitchfield, we manage to deftly weave a way around the major clouds. A few spots of drizzle here and a drop or two there are the worst of it. By the time we reach Bardstown, a warm evening sun prevails, and the only real dousing to be had is another welcome spell in the pool.

Day 4: Bad Weather and One Great Ride

Paul takes his leave of us on our last loop, bidding us adieu for the long trip back to the Sunshine State. The first stage of the shorter ring that Florian and I are riding today takes us directly south at a nice, relaxed pace, pretty much the rhythm around here. Low clouds stubbornly persist despite our later departure, and we're soon startled on Route 49 by steep foothills shrouded in heavy fog. I can't make out the way more than ten feet in front of me at times, and I envy Florian his position, having a taillight to follow. A few murky breaks in the trees suggest that there may be some good views along the climb; however, today's vantage looks much more like a malevolent force brought to life in a Stephen King movie than the sunny visage of Kentucky we've grown accustomed to. As we approach Loretto, the gloom spits us out as quickly as it swallowed us. I have never appreciated a plain-gray overcast sky so much.

With markedly better visibility, we're able to pick it back up to a more comfortable pace and again enjoy other aspects of the quiet countryside. The only cars to be seen are those parked around the many small churches we pass, and all the "Closed" signs in Columbia and Greensburg mark the Sunday observances. Further down the road an hour or so, it's obvious that the pews have emptied: tantalizing aromas drift from kitchens across the road.

By the time we reach Campbellsville, the overcast skies darken with patches that look like cast-iron. We quickly dive for cover at the Sonic Drive-In to wait out the downpour and lightning strikes, and have a snack while we're at it. Southern showers usually pass quickly and these are no exception.

Uncertain as to what we'll find ramping up for the last stretch, we soon learn that patience is a virtue when riding in Kentucky. Throwing us some of the best twists and turns we've yet encountered, Routes 462 and 457 grant this tour a great swerving sendoff on the final miles to Bardstown.

We ventured into this part of Kentucky with enthusiasm and readily adjusted to an easier pace that, like the drawl, is slower, relaxed, and utterly serene. And as farmers prepare for the harvest, much of last year's bounty, slowly becoming bourbon, ages in charred barrels. It seems, after all, that the best things in life are worth waiting for.

In General

What this part of Kentucky may lack in scenic "wow" factors, it more than makes up for in the appealing nature of the roads peacefully winding across the countryside. You'll have no trouble "getting away from it all" around here. If friendly folks, Southern cuisine, and better spirits sound good, don't hesitate to spin through the Bardstown area.

How to Get There

The easiest east/west option is Interstate 64, running less than an hour north of Bardstown and connecting to the tour area via I-65 and I-66 (the Bluegrass Parkway). North/south I-75 also comes close, passing through Lexington, about an hour's ride away.

Food & Lodging

We enjoyed the comfort and convenience of our lodgings at the Best Western General Nelson. The historic downtown area is a short walk away, and many other national chains, independent motels, inns, and restaurants are nearby.

Roads & Biking

The pavement is in fantastic shape, and the traffic is sparse no matter where you ride. The combinations of twists and straights balance out pretty well, and each leaf of this shamrock is suited to nearly any riding style, no matter the experience level. Whether you're astride a sporty ride or a big cruiser, the twists and turns are A-OK across the board.

Sightseeing & Shopping

Historic downtown Bardstown is a nice place for strolling and shopping. A number of small shops offer distinctive mementos of a Kentucky visit. While out and about, make some time for a tour or two of the several distilleries you'll pass along the way. The Heaven Hill Distillery, in Bardstown, is also home to the Bourbon Heritage Center, a great depository for the spirit's history as well as unique souvenirs.

Books & Maps

My AAA map unerringly got us from point A to B throughout the tour area. For more info about the back roads, dip into Zoe Ayn Stecker's Kentucky Off the Beaten Path (ISBN 0762735228, $13.95).