Reader Ride: Doing the Dempster

Stretching across the Yukon and Northwest Territories of Canada, the 720-kilometer Dempster Highway wanders for days through untamed wilderness to reach the frontier outpost of Inuvik. Backtracking its length is the only way off the tundra, but rest assured that not a single moment of this incredible adventure will fail to amaze.

The journey begins in Dawson City, Yukon, a wildly enjoyable destination in itself. Forty kilometers east of Dawson on the Klondike Highway stands the marker announcing the start of the Dempster. The road appears unassuming enough, but it doesn't take long for first-timers to realize that whatever schedule they had planned has gone completely out the window. The top speed limit is 50 mph, but our actual average was about 25. Road conditions do play a part: the Yukon side is primarily hard-packed dirt or gravel, which is to your advantage until even the slightest rain results in an impassably slick surface; and in the Northwest Territories you will find that "maintenance" often consists of dropping large, axle-deep piles of loose shale at random unmarked intervals along the road. The primary culprit compromising your schedule, however, is the fact that over its relatively brief distance this road will introduce you to some of the most awe-inspiring and diverse landscape you are ever likely to see.

The first major landmark is the Tombstone Mountains. These majestic granite peaks are among the most easily accessible alpine recreation areas in North America. A beautiful campground and interpretive center are open from July through early September, and although it's located only 72 kilometers up the Dempster, it is a fantastic place to stay if you enjoy hiking, photography, or just absorbing the immense wildflower-strewn valleys and their inhabitants. Moose, caribou, grizzly bear, Dall sheep, and wolverines are all frequent visitors to the Dempster area, as are bald eagles, falcons, Arctic chickens, and a host of smaller creatures. The majority of visitors to the area do not venture beyond Tombstone, and only a handful continue beyond the next campground, the thickly forested fishing destination of Engineer Creek at the 194-kilometer mark. Because of the remoteness and sparse human habitation, creatures of every size use the road daily and as part of their migration routes. Be alert at all times, and remember that these are wild animals! Give them plenty of space, and bring a camera with lots of zoom.

The first gas station is at Eagle Plains, 371 kilometers (230 miles) up the Dempster, so plan accordingly. This is a great place to stop, although with nearly 24 hours of daylight it is surprisingly hard to convince your brain that it's time to call it a day. Eagle Plains boasts a modest hotel, campground, diner, service station, and a wealth of information on local history and legends. The service station does not work on motorcycles, but the employees were happy to let us use their tire machine to repair a few flats. Driving on shale is akin to driving on broken bottles; everything is fine when the pieces are lying flat, but if you catch one at the wrong angle you will find yourself with some nasty gashes in your tires. It's always best to plan for the worst, so bring a compressor or other reusable air source along with as many sticky-strips as you can find (mushroom-type plugs don't do a thing for those long slices).

Thirty-four kilometers north of Eagle Plains is the Arctic Circle, where a great kiosk and sweeping vistas of impossible green mark the latitude which experiences 24 hours of continuous daylight and 24 hours of continuous darkness each year. At kilometer 465 the Dempster crosses into the Northwest Territories. Beyond this point you will find a relative abundance of tiny campgrounds, parks and traditional communities, but only one – Fort McPherson – has fuel. There are two river crossings on the road to Inuvik, both of which are free and operate from 9 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. daily from June through Mid-October. The first crosses the Peel River and takes only about five minutes shore-to-shore. The second crosses at the junction of the Mackenzie and Arctic Red rivers and is a three-point crossing, offering service to the Gwich'in community of Tsiigehtchic, in addition to the north and south sides of the highway. The Mackenzie River is the third largest river in the Western Hemisphere and the ferry crossing gives you time to appreciate its incredible size and strength.

After disembarking the ferry, there lies a mere 128 kilometers between you and the Arctic oasis of Inuvik. The conifers and wildflowers have given way to scrub and marshy delta, and as you take in this last bit of tundra you begin to feel the true impact of the milestone you are about to reach. With 736 hard-earned kilometers under your belt, you will experience the now-odd sensation of concrete under your tires and know the town of Inuvik has welcomed you.

Inuvik has a number of hotels and campgrounds ranging from budget-friendly to almost decadent. A wide variety of restaurants ready to tantalize your taste buds with everything from pizza and Chinese food to local game and native specialties are within easy walking distance along Inuvik's main drag. You won't want to miss the marvelous architecture of Our Lady of Victory Church, also called Igloo Church. Consider planning your visit around The Great Northern Arts Festival, held annually for ten days in mid-June. It is an unsurpassed opportunity to understand the incredibly unique native cultures of people from all over the Arctic. June and July are the best months to visit, as May is still very cold and August is the rainiest month of the year. If your taste for adventure still has not been sated, hop a bush plane to Tuktoyaktuk for some fishing at a remote lodge or just to dip your toes in the Arctic Ocean. So, do some careful planning, throw your schedule out the window, and put this incredible frontier destination high atop your list of places to ride.