Burke's Garden, Virginia

God's Thumbprint

Years ago, Kathy and I met a fellow rider while touring the Virginia mountains. As residents of Asheville, North Carolina, at the time, we thought one of his tales was unusually curious. It seems that the beautiful location of our city's crown jewel, the Biltmore Estate, was really tycoon George Vanderbilt's Plan B.

We found it hard to believe that George Washington Vanderbilt's idyllic site for his grand, "summer" chateau (175,000 square feet) and estate was a fallback location. That's not a fact readily bandied about in Asheville. As the years passed, we remembered our colleague's story, though the name of this fabled locale slipped our minds. What setting, we long wondered, could possibly top the gentle, rolling hills along the French Broad River in Western North Carolina?

Recently, while scouring maps for a two-up, overnight tour on Kymco's Xciting 500cc scooter, I recalled this intriguing tale and did a little digging. It seems, the Biltmore story is indeed true. In the late 1800s, agents for Mr. Vanderbilt visited a reportedly paradisiacal mountain community near the southwestern Virginia town of Tazewell. They were intent upon purchasing property worthy of a palace that, once constructed, would become the largest privately owned home in America. There was only one hang-up. The residents, to a man, wouldn't sell a single acre. In those days, to acquire this land, you had to marry in to it or inherit it. Legend even has it that George made a personal appearance to plead his case but to no avail. Despite his millions, he just didn't meet the qualifications. In most places, money talks, but in Burke's Garden, it was completely muzzled. For those folks to have stuck to their guns and turned down instant wealth meant to me that this area must have been and likely still is a pretty special place – and certainly worth exploring. Well, it's not too far from home, I thought, the weekend's here, and the scooter has a full tank of gas…

Located just 160 miles from Winston-Salem, North Carolina, Burke's Garden presents the perfect excuse for a nice day ride or a great pretext to finish work early on Friday and call it a weekender. And so, after a spirited ride to Tazewell, Kathy and I motor east on Route 61 and pick up the small and very winding Route 623. Climbing the steep mountain, we do our best to lean the scooter into the serpentine curves, testing the friction quotient of the Kymco's center stand the entire way. Soon the tarmac noses downward, hurtling us on a dizzying ride down the other side. As we glide past the sign welcoming us to our destination, we notice that the eerie clouds so omnipresent all morning seem to have magically parted in the distance, bathing the pastoral land before us in brilliant shafts of light.

Nestled atop Garden Mountain at an elevation of 3,000 feet, Burke's Garden is Virginia's highest valley and completely encircled by mountains. Geologically, this ovate 25,000-acre indentation is an anomaly. From the air, it looks like a giant bowl scooped from the mountaintop – hence its nickname, God's Thumbprint. The land has long been hailed as some of the most fertile in the state; so, naturally, it's understandable why the early residents refused to sell out to the Vanderbilts. Native Americans revered the area as prime hunting grounds, and it is one of the few places in the world with the proper strain of bluegrass to naturally "grass finish" beef cattle. In fact, the valley's name derives from an incident verifying the astonishing fecundity of its soil. According to legend, James Burke, a member of a surveying party discarded some potato peels after cooking supper one night in 1748; and when the crew returned to the same camp the following year, they discovered that a fine crop of potatoes had sprouted from his leavings.

While riding through Burke's Garden, it's hard not to become absorbed in the peacefulness and serenity. Time seems irrelevant. The ring of mountains, a natural barrier to the outside world, has given residents reason to see to it that their unique way of life stays protected. There are no real services in the valley. The Burke's Garden General Store does have a small grill that dishes up "the best burger in town," but we feel the real attractions there are the cold Cokes and the porch swing. Just down the road, you'll find the post office. Postmistress Colleen Cox, a lifelong resident, will be happy to fill you in on the local history, but she's only got the doors open between 10:00 and 1:00. Other than that, don't expect more than pleasant rolling hills, quiet, pastoral lanes, and the sprawling beauty of age-old farms that have earned the valley a National Rural Historic District designation. It's a quiet place where the land is the attraction, and that's how the 300 year-round residents like it.

We found Burke's Garden to be a fascinating spot and an ideal destination for a day ride. No matter which route you choose to get here, the roads are scenic, winding, and a blast to ride. Take heed, though: unless you're riding an adventure or dual-sport bike, be sure to enter Burke's Garden from the north. Route 623 does connect Route 61 and the southern Route 42, but we were firmly advised not to attempt this section on the scooter. Apparently, negotiating two steep mountains on questionable gravel is part of the deal. We agreed to take the locals' word for it and ventured back the way we came.

Though Burke's Garden is remote, there are motels and plenty of places to grab a bite in the nearby towns of Tazewell, Marion, and Bluefield, West Virginia. If excitement and adrenaline rule your day, you won't find many kicks here. But if spending an afternoon in tranquil surroundings, far away from life's everyday rigors, sounds appealing put Burke's Garden on your list. And maybe, somewhat like Mr. Burke's spuds, many more visits will spring from this rich valley.