Issue:
Spring 2002

Text:
Andi Seiler

Photography:
Andi Seiler

Geographic Region:
CO, USA

Pages:
40 - 45

Visit the gallery for more pictures

 

Monika is shaking a little bit. Not because of the curvy road without a railing we just encountered. It's because she's freezing. No wonder, it's 30 degrees; and while sitting at the top of Mount Evans, it starts snowing on us. Unbelievable, it's the middle of August. But the weather can turn cold and foul anytime of year at this elevation. This particular peak, at 14,264 ft./4,351 meters, is one of the 53 Fourteeners in Colorado. In good weather, you get a great view of the Rockies and can even see downtown Denver. And if you are in the mood for a hike, there are plenty of opportunities on the way up or down. We are more in the mood for a hot cup of coffee and a stop at the little restaurant beside Echo Lake at the bottom. That'll get your brain working properly again and defrost your joints.

It's Sunday and a good time for driving downtown and doing some sightseeing. Bikers' choice for a stop and a snack is Larimer Square, Denver's oldest street with Victorian-era storefronts, right at the edge of northern downtown and close to Coors Field. On a sunny day, you will see lots of motorcycles parked on the side of the street. From here you can walk to historic Union Station, one of the oldest buildings in town and still a railroad hub for Amtrak. Six daily arrivals and departures serve L. A., San Francisco, Seattle and Chicago. Trains also make daily stops in ski-resort destinations and other towns in Colorado.

We take a look at the high buildings of the business district, walk along the 16th Street Mall and make a stop in the Hard Rock Café. We park our bike at Coors Field and watch a game, the Colorado Rockies baseball team of Denver. To me, going to a baseball game is also about experiencing the atmosphere, as well as the contest on the field. If you sit in the right seats, you can see the peaks of the Rockies far away.

Next morning, a short ride west of Denver, we visit Golden, a small town filled with typical Western flair and home of the Coors Brewery. "Howdy folks, welcome," says a big banner across Washington Street. The old buildings here give the University town (the Colorado School of Mines) its character. Foss Drug Store offers a wide variety of products worth seeing and gives you a feel for the good ol' days. We grab a burger at the Old Capitol Grill and sit outside to enjoy the warming sun. Right across the street is the Buffalo Rose where bikers usually stop for a beverage. The large back room of the bar has a stage where famous bands of the past entertain fans. Check out their sign for upcoming concerts.

Buffalo Rose reminds us of our next destination, the Buffalo Bill Museum and Grave on top of Lookout Mountain on the west side of Golden. Some road construction pioneers did a great job cutting a nice pass with amazing turns in the rocks of the foothills here. Expect wildlife along the road, so be careful and ride safely! The memorabilia in the museum tells the story of the life and death of William Frederick Cody, better known as Buffalo Bill, Pony Express rider, frontier scout, bison hunter and showman. Just a few steps away, a quartz-rock encrusted grave holds his wife and Cody's remains. He died in Denver on January 10, 1917, and as the story says, he had chosen a spot on Cedar Mountain outside Cody, Wyoming, for his eternal rest. But Denver officials hung onto his body and finally buried it on top of Lookout Mountain. Several tons of steel-reinforced concrete made sure the townfolks of Cody, Wyoming, wouldn't be able to retrieve the bones of the famous scout although they had vowed to send the militia to reclaim the body. It never happened; but for a certain time the Cody American Legion Post offered a $10,000 reward for Cody's remains.

That's going to a whole lot of trouble for a man who isn't regarded as a hero by everyone. At least those are my thoughts when we watch the bison grazing at Buffalo Herd Overlook near Genesee. Cody was the principal figure encouraging the hunting that almost wiped out these magnificent animals. Today, their stock is growing and they are safe again.

On the road again, we continue on I-70 to US 74 and pick up Morrison Road (CO-8) in Evergreen (just go straight, 74 makes a right turn). This back road leads you through one of the nicest canyons around Denver. You see anglers trying their luck in Bear Creek and some people canoe there when the water level is high enough. On our ride we are surrounded by large rocks and plenty of wildlife, not to mention the great winding road. Shortly before Morrison, we make a left turn towards Red Rocks Park, a great place to lean back and relax. It's noon and most of the people seem to be enjoying their lunch, so we are basically alone. We climb the steps of the big amphitheater. During the summer season you can attend the concerts of many famous bands and artists. Bruce Dickinson, Sting and Neil Young have performed here.

It's time to head back. Instead of taking the busy C-470, we return on Morrison Road to enjoy the curves and nature one last time. After getting back on CO-74 and I-70, we hit busy traffic again. My choice is the alternative route over US-40. Shortly before we get back to Golden I pull onto the little mountain road that leads up to the Mother Cabrini Shrine. From here we enjoy the sunset and the overlook displaying the foothills and downtown Denver. We had a great time on our two-day ride. And it really doesn't take a lot of effort, logistically or timewise, to feel free and relaxed when you take your bike (and your wife) for a ride.

FACTS AND INFORMATION
In General
Denver (population 2.5 million) and surroundings offer a wide range of recreational activities and are great for motorcycling. You can ride downtown and enjoy the architecture and cultural attractions of a huge, fast growing city. Have a seat in one of the cafés on Larimer Square and check out the Victorian buildings and the hustle and bustle in the street. Watch a Colorado Rockies baseball game at Coors Field, the Colorado Avalanche (hockey) or Denver Nuggets (basketball) at the Pepsi Center or the Denver Broncos (football) at Invesco Field at Mile High on Federal Boulevard. You can also fish, play golf, shop downtown or in the malls or sightsee around the metro area. Of course, you should head out of town for some incredible rides up to Mount Evans (14,264ft./4,351meters), from Evergreen to Morrison, Lookout Mountain, Golden Gate Canyon, or US-6 and CO-119 towards Nederland and Boulder.

How to Get There
The easiest and fastest way to get to Denver is on a plane to DIA (Denver International Airport). The 4.3-billion-dollar project offers daily nonstop flights to and from many national and international cities. At 53 square miles it's the largest airport in the world. The roof of the terminal symbolizes the peaks of the Rockies. A lot of travelers use the Colorado Springs Airport as an alternative. Also, Denver's historic Union Station is still a railroad hub for Amtrak. Six arrivals and departures a day serve Chicago, Seattle, Los Angeles and San Francisco. The trains also make daily stops in Colorado towns like Grand Junction, Glenwood Springs and Winter Park. To get to Denver by bike, take I-70 from west or east or take I-25 from north or south.

Climate
Denver and Colorado in general have more than 300 days of sun. The climate is very dry, so drink lots of water. Don't forget the altitude of the Mile High City. Temperatures in the 80s and 90s are usual in summer. Best time to travel is May and June or September and October because the temperatures drop into the 70s and low 80s. Fall is very nice because of the changing colors of the aspens.

Food & Lodging
In Denver and the surrounding area you can find a wide range of hotels, motels, Bed & Breakfasts and restaurants. But it can get very crowded during the peak season of summer and winter, and at some places it is almost impossible to find a place to stay overnight. So, don't hit the busy times, or book overnights early enough.

Money & Prices
In the last few years Denver has become more expensive like other larger cities on the west and east coasts. One of the reasons is that the population is booming and the prices are as well. But it is still affordable if you don't need a great deal of comfort. During the summer, a good, comfortable hotel room costs about $80 to $120. If you travel during the preseason, it will be more reasonable. There are motels around Denver that offer rooms for prices from $25 and up. Lunch or dinner can be had in the $7 and $20 price range.

Roads & Biking
The best streets for biking are the back roads around Denver. Of course, you have to leave the metro area behind if you want to ride the curves and mountains. But always watch out for gravel or sand. On the bigger highways you should expect more cops and radar guns. At night, motorcycling is dangerous, due in part to the deer, elk and other wildlife. Several rental stations offer bikes (check chapter addresses & phone numbers). Colorado has no helmet law. To hit some typical biker places, meet bikers at the Buffalo Rose (downtown Golden), Rock Rest (South Golden Road) or in one of the pubs in Morrison near Red Rocks Park (southwest of Denver).

Sightseeing & Shopping

• Red Rocks Park, Morrison (southwest of Denver; C-470 or I-70, CO-74 and CO-8/Morrison Road)
• Golden Gate Canyon Park (from Denver US-6 to Golden, continue on CO-93 toward Boulder, exit to CO-70 west/Golden Gate Canyon Road)
• Mount Evans (west of Denver, I-70 to CO-74, exit Mount Evans, continue to Echo Lake, exit Mount Evans)
• Larimer Square (downtown Denver)
• 16th Street Mall (downtown Denver)
• Coors Field (baseball, downtown Denver)
• Pepsi Center (hockey/basketball, downtown Denver)
• Invesco Field at Mile High (football, Federal Boulevard, Denver)
• Ocean Journey (aquarium, downtown Denver)
• Six Flags Elitch Gardens (amusement park, downtown Denver)

Books & Maps

• The Insider's Guide to Denver by Sally Stich & Jana Miller,
  ISBN 1-57380-093-7, $15,95.
  Nearly 400 pages about the Mile High City with detailed descriptions of its
  culinary delights and popular shopping destinations, arts community, accommodations,
  history and recreational pursuits by local authors Sally Stich and Jana Miller.
• Altitude Super America Guide – Colorado
  by Patrick Soran & Dan Klinglesmith,
  Altitude Publishing Ltd.,
  ISBN 1-55265-000-6, $19.95. Probably
  the best book about Colorado with great
  information about Denver and impressive
  color photography.
• Easy Finder Denver and Vicinity,
  Rand McNally, ISBN 0-528-95628-0,
  $6.95, at gas stations or in bookstores;
  perfect for bikers because of its plastic coating.
• Easy Finder Colorado
  (with map of Denver), Rand McNally,
  ISBN 0-528-97055-0, $6.95, at gas
  stations or in bookstores; perfect for
  bikers because of its plastic coating

Addresses & Phone Numbers

• Denver Tourist Information,
  website: www.Denver.com
• Fay Myers (authorized dealer for Aprilia,
  Bimota, Cagiva, Ducati, Honda,
  Husaberg, Husqvarna, Kawasaki,
  KTM, MV Agusta, Suzuki), 2015 West
  Alameda, Denver, CO 80223,
  phone (303) 744-6632, fax 722-3150,
  website: www.faymyers.com
• MotoRanch, 16099 South Golden Road,
  Golden, CO 80401,
  phone (303) 748-1862,
  fax(303) 279-8307,
  email: info@motoranch.com
  website: www.motoranch.com
  available Bikes: Aprilia RSV Mille,
  Aprilia SL 1000 Falco, Suzuki RF 900 R,
  Suzuki SV 650, Yamaha FZ 1,
  prices: $115 - $195 a day (weekly and
  group rates are negotiable individually!).