Issue:
Spring 2001

Text:
Andi Seiler

Photography:
Andi Seiler and Monika Seiler

Geographic Region:
CO, USA

Pages:
18 - 31

Tankbag Maps:
Download Map 1

Visit the gallery for more pictures

 

The radio is turned up. Steppenwolf’s “Born to be Wild” is resounding from the speakers, sunshine is back after several days, I’m sitting on the bike, the lady of my heart on the rear seat, and we’re heading north on Interstate 25. Not even the busy traffic is able to hold me back from being in a good mood. I’ve been waiting for this moment for too long. Pull the throttle and get away!

In Cheyenne, Wyoming, we arrive at Frontier Days, the most famous rodeo in the USA. “The Daddy of ‘em All,” the Americans call it. A great event with a lot of visitors, cowboys, bulls, horses, beer and beef. For a German guy like me it’s a great and an exciting moment to meet ‘em all. Bob and Kristie in the PR-office take good care of us, our press passports, Stetsons, cowboy boots and long-sleeved shirts. Otherwise you won’t get in. That’s the cowboy rule for the press. It reminds me a little bit of my childhood when we used to play Cowboys and Indians.

In the evening, after a long exciting day, we get the opportunity to listen to real country music from the third row with cold Coors in our hands. Alan Jackson, songwriter and singer, is loudly welcomed by the fans while singing his typical songs about country life, love, cowboy romance and a wide country. I have to agree with him. This is a great country, and I wish to stay here forever. While thinking of rainy, cloudy and cold Germany and driving down the highways of Colorado and Wyoming, I’ve got the kick. It seems like the right time, right country, right girl to change all the things around me.

The cold and the rainy weather return on our way to Laramie the next day. Thunderstorms with impressive lightning and showers are reminding me of good old Germany. No, I won’t go back. Some of the guys on our staff in Germany are making jokes about me as “Rainman.” The area I come from is famous for its bad weather with plenty of rainshowers.

All those thoughts are gone when the sunshine comes back the next morning. Mona and I are heading southwest to Steamboat Springs. The weather is becoming better and better, and blue skies can tell us something about the Blue Mountains. Most of the time I’m thinking of John Denver who wrote a lot of songs about his home country. In my childhood, I listened to those songs over and over again and dreamed about this amazing part of the world. As a singer and songwriter, John changed his name from Henry John Deutschendorf to John Denver. “Deutschendorf!” Mysterious coincidence, isn’t it? No, it’s fate, it must be!

Taking 230 and 127 to Walden, crossing the 9,426 feet high Rabbit Ears Pass, we arrive in Steamboat Springs, a popular ski area with many slopes, gondolas and wooden buildings housing bars, hotels and restaurants. Mona is getting hungry, and therefore a little bit grumpy. Just for harmony it’s better to look for a place to have lunch. The sun shines intensely here at this altitude, and we enjoy our lunch and the warming sunlight.

A couple of minutes later the scenery quickly changes, dark clouds and sounds of thunder are getting closer. We decide to return and take the Muddy Pass (8,772 ft.) down to Kremmling. We pass Parshal, Hot Sulphur Springs, Silver Creek and Tabernash while ridin’ the Electra Glide and enjoying the beautiful landscape of the alpine region. Berthoud Pass (11,315 ft.), the eye of a needle through the rocks and down to Denver, is open from 6.00 a.m. to 9.00 p.m. Rockin’ through some nice curves in the pass, we make for home in Evergreen where Mona lives. A wonderful sundown marks the end of an exciting day.

Also very exciting is Red Rocks near Morrison which we visit the next day. Best time to come here is early in the morning when first light brushes against the big rocks, when the air smells fresh and sharp and deer are crossing the narrow street up to the top. “Enjoy life and nature” is the motto. Red Rocks Park also includes a big amphitheatre where you can attend the concerts of famous bands and singers. Guys like Neil Young or Sting already have given successful performances here on stage, and a long list of concerts is scheduled each summer.

A little bit similar to Red Rocks, but bigger and more impressive, is the landscape of the Garden of the Gods in Manitou Springs near Colorado Springs. Our ride down there crosses the village of Buffalo Creek, a town that was badly damaged by a big fire in 1996 and, the following year, by torrential rains, causing devastating mudslides. It’s kind of sad, when you’re looking at the burned forest and the black, naked trees. Half an hour later we arrive at the Garden of the Gods, take a few pictures and walk around. Then it starts raining again – heavily. And it will become even worse, big drops are crashing at the window of our hotel room. It doesn’t stop raining all night.

After returning on I-25 the next day to Evergreen we hear incredible stories about thunderstorms around Denver. We read in the newspaper that the main street in Buffalo Creek was demolished by the flood—the same street we drove down to Manitou Springs the day before. Only one day later another thunderstorm puts I-25 through downtown Denver underwater. We were fortunate to get home early. Although Colorado has a very dry climate with over 300 days of sunshine per year, these kind of storm systems are typical in the afternoons of July and August.

The next day we pull off highway 74 at exit 252, heading towards Echo Lake and Mount Evans. The “Highest Paved Road in the US” takes us up to the top of the mountain that is 14,264 feet high with an amazing view. A tight road with narrow turns and spots of dangerous gravel leads you up there. Slower speed is the cure for crashing. On the top it starts snowing – early in August! Riding down from Echo Lake to Idaho Springs is nearly as exciting, but getting closer to town you should watch your speed. The cops are everywhere. We’re heading west on I-70, then pulling off at the next exit to Falling River Road, a route that climbs up to some smaller ski resorts. Even in July there’s snow on the streets. To stop on your way up, to sit down and to enjoy fantastic nature is incredibly relaxing and gives you the kick for the Rockies. A kick you will never lose.

“Some Guys Have All the Luck” is Rod Stewart roaring out of the E-Glide’s speaker system. That fits. Even though I have to return the bike at the rental station of Moturis in Denver, I’m able to get a Ducati Monster from Fay Myers in Denver to finish our ride through Colorado. Thanks again for the great deal. The Monster is really a bike you can enjoy with the curves of the back roads. And there are a lot of them out there in the mountains. Even right next to Denver you can ride through curves that writhe like a rattlesnake. In Golden we pull off US 6 to Lookout Mountain, where a winding road leads you to Buffalo Bill’s Grave Museum and the grave itself at the top. The big hunter and his wife are buried here. Besides that, you’ll learn a lot about the history and culture of this area when you visit the museum.

Then it’s time to head west to the great ski areas, only a few hours away from Denver. Mona has promised we will ride a lot of pass roads and take some incredible views. But the first miles on I-70 and then over Leadville to Twin Lakes is more like a boring straight highway. However, you enjoy the view of some mountains ranging between 10,000 and 12,000 feet, even some fourteeners like the highest peak in Colorado: Mount Elbert, towering 14,433 feet high. Then, shortly before we get to Aspen, we have a blast riding Independence Pass, 12,095 feet high. Finally the Monster and I are getting our tight turns. This is the cream in our coffee, no doubt about that!

Aspen itself is a town with a long skiing tradition, but also is a high-priced resort with busy streets, tourism and the celebrity community from Hollywood. In my opinion, you feel that by walking by the shops and restaurants downtown. Some people might enjoy this, but we don’t feel comfortable. Maybe I expected the typical ski village with wooden houses and romantic lights. When we ride to our hotel in nearby Snowmass Village, we pass the small airport of Aspen. And even here we can see it from the bike—jetsetters all over the place.

Back on the road the next day we are heading northwest to Glenwood Springs which is famous for their hot springs. A little bit east of town the Colorado River has cut a deep hole in the rocks. A very nice area here is Glenwood Canyon which you reach only by coming from the west because there is only this one exit. We want to go for a hike up to Hanging Lake; a narrow path leads the visitor up to the top. Mona, since she has already lived and hiked here for some years and is well trained and used to the high altitude, is going at a gruelling pace—and I struggle behind with all my camera stuff and some picnic bagels on my back. I have to go damned close to my personal limits to follow her. Of course, I don’t want to let her know what’s going on with me and my body. But all the pain vanishes when we arrive at the top. Hanging Lake is a wonderful point with little waterfalls where you can take a cold, fresh shower. Fish are diving through the clear water, ready to hunt mosquitoes—for me it’s one of the most impressive places in Colorado.

Late at night we stop in Vail, another famous ski town and the home of the Mountainbike and Ski World Championship. Looking out the window of our hotel room the next day, I see mountain bikers flying down the slopes on their high-tech steel horses. That’s a thrill! I almost want to go for it. But then I have to think of the Alps in Europe, increasingly damaged by cutting more slopes in the woods and using them also in the summer for the sport of mountain biking. Mother Nature rarely gets a chance for a little rest.

Instead, we opt to walk through the town and do some shopping. Vail is different from Aspen. It’s not so overloaded with high-society stuff. Maybe, it’s also no longer the typical village of Colorado—you see a lot of Austrian and German names on shops, hotels and restaurants, but I kinda like it. It still has the spirit of a small community that enjoys having guests from all over the world to offer them all the opportunities of “the white gold.” The snow in Colorado is supposed to be the best in the world, it’s dry and fluffy. And in the summertime they have plenty of other ways to entertain you.

The Dillon Reservoir and the small beautiful ski town of Breckenridge are the next stops on our way back to Denver. At an art festival downtown, sculptors and other artists endeavor to create great shapes out of wood. Chainsaws, drills and grinders provide the background music. Elsewhere, dads, moms and their kids are hunting for gold in some large sand boxes. It’s really interesting to watch the scenery.

We set off for the last leg of our ride to Denver when Mona has the great idea to take a side-trip to Loveland Pass for some riding fun, although she doesn’t like the tiny rear section of the Monster’s seat. It’s a blast to lean over turn after turn, accelerating and braking is a good change compared to the boring ride on the interstate. But we have to hurry before it gets dark. So it’s back on I-70 to get home the fastest way.

Our tour through Colorado is almost over. We take another trip to Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park to hang out a few days, and after getting back I take a last ride up to Lookout Mountain, one of my favorite spots. Sitting on a rock, thinking about our tour, the beautiful blue skies and those impressive mountains, I decide to come back and stay. I want to live here…and now I do!

FACTS AND INFORMATION
In General
Colorado offers a wide range of landscape and recreational activities. The Rocky Mountains dominate the part west of the bigger cities like Denver and Colorado Springs, while east of them the land turns into flat plains. Overall 53 peaks of the Rockies are higher than 14,000 feet (4,270 meters), the highest is Mount Elbert at 14,433 feet (4,402 meters), west of Leadville. Coloradans call these fourteeners and the challenge is to climb them all. Colorado is one of the most popular ski areas in the world, and the dry and fluffy powder snow is a blast for snowboarders and skiers. Vail and Aspen are the most famous ski towns here. Most of the time the smaller resorts like Breckenridge, Winter Park, Keystone or Loveland are the better way to go skiing or snowmobiling, because it’s a little less expensive and not so crowded during the season. In the summertime, mountain biking and hiking are very popular. The capital of Colorado, Denver, is also called the most sports-minded town in the United States. Professional baseball (Colorado Rockies), Hockey (Colorado Avalanche) and Football (Denver Broncos, Super Bowl Champions in 1998 and 1999) dominate the town. In the stadium of the “Rockies” you find a purple row (team colors are white and purple) that marks the altitude of 5,280 feet (one mile). Because of that Denver is also called the “Mile High City.” There are a lot of opportunities to spend some quality time around town. You can go fishing, play golf, go shopping downtown or in the malls or go sightseeing around the metro area. Colorado is also called the Centennial State because the state joined the Union in 1876, exactly 100 years after the Declaration of Independence. Almost 4.0 million people live here, most of them in Denver (2.5 million).

Ways to get there
Denver International Airport (DIA, opened February 1995) is the easiest and fastest way to get to Colorado. The 4.3-billion dollar project offers daily nonstop flights to 109 cities, including some in Europe. At 53 square miles, it’s the largest airport in the world. The roof of the terminal symbolizes the peaks of the Rockies. A lot of air travelers discover the Colorado Springs Airport is a good alternative. Also, Denver’s historic Union Station is still a railroad hub for Amtrak. Six arrivals and departures per day serve Chicago, Seattle, Los Angeles and San Francisco. The trains also make daily stops in Colorado towns like Grand Junction, Glenwood Springs and Winter Park. If you want to get to Colorado by bike, just take Interstate 70 from west or east or take Interstate 25 from north or south.

Climate
Colorado has a very dry climate. In the summertime it gets hot (80s and 90s), in the winter it can be very cold, most of all in the mountains, but the lack of humidity makes it comfortable. The metro area of Denver doesn’t usually get so much rain or snow; mostly the storm systems—coming from the west—get stuck in the Rockies. And there are some times when you still have 60s and 70s around town in the winter months. Best time for motorcycling is spring or fall. The temperatures are not that high and the vegetation shows pretty colors. You can actually ride your motorcycle twelve months of the year.

Board & Lodging
Colorado is a huge area for recreational activities. Because of that you have a wide range of hotels, motels, bed & breakfasts and restaurants. During the main season of summer or winter, it can get very crowded, and at some places it is almost impossible to find a room to stay overnight. So, if you plan a tour through Colorado, make sure that you don’t hit the busy times, or book the places to stay overnight early enough.

Money & Prices
If you compare it to other busy parts of the US, Colorado can be as expensive as the west or east coasts. The population is growing, and the prices are as well. A lot of that depends on how much comfort you need and at what time you travel. During the summer, a good and comfortable hotel room costs about $80 to $120. If you travel during the preseason it will be cheaper. There are motels around Denver that offer rooms from $25 and up. For lunch or dinner you pay between $7 and $20, but you also can easily spend 100 bucks if you hit an expensive, first-class restaurant.

Roads & Biking
The thrills are the backroads of Colorado. Here you find the turns that make motorcycling special, but always watch out for gravel. Near the bigger cities and on the bigger highways you should expect more cops and radar guns. At night motorcycling gets more dangerous in general, but here especially because of the deer and elk that are all over the place. Several rental stations offer bikes (check chapter addresses & phone numbers), if you don’t have one. Colorado has no helmet law. If you want to go to some typical biker places, drive up to Lookout Mountain (west of Denver) or meet the guys at the Buffalo Rose (downtown Golden), Rock Rest (Old Golden Road) or in one of the pubs in Morrison near Red Rocks Park (southwest of Denver).

Places for sightseeing & shopping

• Red Rocks Park, Morrison (southwest of Denver; C 470 or CO 8/Morrison Road)
• Rocky Mountain National Park/Estes Park (I-25 north of Denver, CO 34 or CO 36)
• Mesa Verde National Park (from Denver I-25 south, exit near Walsenburg on US 160 west)
• Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Monument (from Glenwood Springs CO 82 south, exit near Carbondale to CO 133 south, exit near Hotchkiss to CO 92 south, exit near Crawford to the Canyon road)
• Great Sand Dunes National Park (from Denver I-25 south, exit near Walsenburg to US 160 west, exit after Blanca to CO 150 north)
• Golden Gate Canyon Park (from Denver US 6 to Golden, continue on CO 93 towards Boulder, exit to CO 70 west/Golden Gate Canyon Road)
• Hanging Lake (from Glenwood Springs, I-70, exit Glenwood Canyon/Hanging Lake)
• Mount Evans (west of Denver, I-70 to US 74, exit Mount Evans)
• Larimer Square (downtown Denver)
• 16th Street Mall (downtown Denver)
• Coors Field (baseball, downtown Denver)
• Pepsi Center (hockey/basketball, downtown Denver)
• Invesco Field at Mile High (football, Denver, Federal Boulevard)
• Downtown Aquarium (aquarium, downtown Denver)

Books & Maps

• Patrick Soran & Dan Klinglesmith: Altitude Super America Guide—Colorado, Altitude Publishing Ltd., ISBN 1-55265-000-6, $19.95. Probably the best book about Colorado with plenty of impressive color pictures and a wide variety of good information.
• Bruce Caughey & Dean Winstanley: The Colorado Guide, fourth edition, Fulcrum Publishing, ISBN 1-55591-329-6, $19.95. Tons of practical information about regions, events, history, hotels etc., pictures in black and white.
• Colorado/Wyoming State Map, Rand McNally, 1:1.200,000, ISBN 3-8283-0133-9, $2.95.
• Easy Finder Colorado, Rand McNally, 1:1.400,000, ISBN 0-528-97055-0, $5 to $6 at gas stations or in bookstores; perfect for bikers because of its plastic coating
  

Addresses & Phone Numbers

• Colorado Tourism Office, phone information 1-800-Colorado, www.Colorado.com
• International Tourism Marketing (for requests from foreign countries), 6420 S. Quebec Street, Suite B, Englewood, CO 80111, phone (303) 850-9358, fax (303) 770-4234
• Moturis Inc. Denver (rentals), 5300 Colorado Boulevard, Suite 2, phone (888) 295-6837, www.moturis.com
• North American Motorcycle Tours (rentals & tours), 4340 East Kentucky Unit 114, Glendale, CO 80227, phone & fax (303) 692-1051
• Rocky Mountain ATV Rentals and Service, 1691 W. Hamilton Place, Englewood, CO 80110, phone (303) 762-6006, www.coloradovacation.com/tours/rockyatv
• Fay Myers (authorized dealer for Aprilia, Bimota, Cagiva, Ducati, Honda, Husaberg, Husqvarna, Kawasaki, KTM, MV Agusta, Suzuki), 2015 West Alameda, Denver, CO 80223, phone (303) 744-6632, Fax 722-3150, www.faymyers.com
• Rocky Mountain Cycle Plaza (BMW, Ducati, Honda, Polaris, Sea-Doo, Victory, Yamaha), 3505 East Platte Avenue, Colorado Springs, CO 80909, phone (719) 591-9700, fax (719) 591-0645