Issue:
May/June 2003

Text:
Christian Neuhauser

Photography:
Christian Neuhauser

Geographic Region:
Australia

Pages:
38 - 43

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Some history
In 1300, Marco Polo murkily described for Europeans a southern land later added to Renaissance maps as Terra Australis. It then took 316 years for the first European to step on Australian soil. Dirk Hartog sailed from Amsterdam and nailed a pewter plate to a pole when he landed on the western shore. The first Englishman to arrive was privateer William Dampier who made landfall in 1688. Almost 100 years later, in 1770, James Cook planted the Union Jack on the east coast and took possession of the land for England. Sir Joseph Banks, a botanist on Cook's ship, Endeavour, recommended Botany Bay for the first new settlement, founded at Port Jackson, and later renamed Sydney Cove.

Today, like New York, Sydney is a multicultural melting pot, a great flourishing city that never sleeps. Surrounded with bays and beaches this pearl on the Pacific Ocean is easily compared to its eastern neighbor San Francisco, with its hills, beaches, the cosmopolitan atmosphere, and then there's the presence of "the Bridge," symbolizing another strong link between the two.

The Bridge
The Sydney Harbour Bridge, colloquially known as the "Coathanger," spans 1,650 feet from the city to the south side of the harbor. An economic feat of derring-do, given the depressed times, it's also hailed as an engineering triumph. Over 150,000 vehicles cross the bridge each day, approximately 15 times more than on a typical day in 1932 when the bridge was completed. Riding a bike over this bridge is the same breathtaking experience one has when crossing the Golden Gate Bridge. It presents a wonderful view to one of the most outstanding buildings erected in the last century, The Sydney Opera House, which took $102 million (Aus) to construct and 14 years to finish. The bridge and the Opera House are the city's most popular tourist attractions. When we reached the other side of the bridge, we turned around to ride for The Rocks and Circular Quay.

The Cliffs
This area played a vital role in Sydney's development. In 1788, the First Fleeters under Governor Phillip's command erected makeshift buildings here. English convicts established more permanent structures to line the rough-hewn thoroughfare, a street chipped from solid rock with only hammers and chisels. It took 18 years to finish the project. Known as The Rocks, the area was overrun with disease, crime, and gangs by 1900. Now the neighborhood is a popular hangout for locals and tourists. We stopped there for a moment of picture taking and had a coffee before taking a trip to South Head.

Bays and Beaches
Toni, our tour guide from Twin Blue, leads us carefully through the heavy, left-hand traffic to pass the Port Jackson area, including Farm Cove, Woolloomooloo Bay, and Elisabeth Bay. On New South Head Road we cross the inner city limits between Elisabeth Bay and Rushcutters Bay. Toni opens his throttle a bit more and Daniel, Peter, and I follow suit. We feel pretty comfortable on the left side of the road and eventually swing through the wide sweepers like we were born down under. Of course we're always alert to the oncoming traffic knowing that there are quite a few twitchy Americans and Europeans cruising about in rental cars. Passing Double Bay, Rose Bay, and Watson Bay we turn on Military Road, chasing our Beemers toward Bondi, and stop in Coogee Beach for a snack and a couple of soft drinks. It's winter here but the sun is still powerful. Our Gore-Tex gear is hot and we're close to dehydration before taking this welcome break beside the beach.

"The thirty beaches in and around Sydney make this city a mecca for water-sport freaks," Toni explains.

"And it's definitely a paradise for girl watchers, too," a leering Daniel adds, scanning the scantily clad throng.

Toni laughs, "We'd better start out again, before Daniel screws up totally."

City Centre
On Elisabeth Street we pass Hyde Park. In the past it held a racecourse and plenty of gambling taverns. Today it provides a peaceful oasis near the city's commercial center, an area of international boutiques, department stores, and arcades. We park our bikes and walk through the vivid downtown scene. The Queen Victoria Building, the Strand Arcade, and the Skygarden, a newer arcade with its popular food court on the top level, are some of the places you should visit here.

The Queen Victoria Building, dating from 1898, is a former produce market. Lovingly restored, this entire city block is now an upscale shopping mall. Another restored reminder of the Victorian era is the marvelous Strand Arcade.

One can't miss the AMP Tower. The tower tops the city skyline and offers a 360-degree overlook from a vertiginous height. It rises 305 meters (1,000 feet) and can be seen from as far away as the Blue Mountains. The highest tower in the southern hemisphere, its observation deck houses a coffee shop, a buffet restaurant, and an a la carte restaurant. The double-decker lifts can carry 2,000 people per hour up the tower and in only 40 seconds you're standing on top. Instead of walking back we take a leisurely trip on the monorail for a last look around before taking our seats on the bikes.

Darling Harbour
What to do, what to see? Back in our hotel in Darling Harbour we decide to visit the Harris Street Motor Museum where more than 150 classic motorcars, commercial vehicles, and motorcycles are displayed. Among the gleaming exhibits you'll see a unique Delorean, a Model T BP tanker, Anthony Quinn's 1959 Chevy, and an Edward VII Gardener's Serpollet steam car. After this exiting and informative day the wide range of restaurants convince us to stay in the area for dinner. First we stroll over the Pyrmont Bridge down to Cockly Bay and then we find ourselves in a gustatorial paradise. Restaurants and bars line the way and it isn't an easy decision to find the right place. We settled on a nice Italian restaurant for dinner and carried on into the night at a variety of hot spots near by.

Friendly and Fun
Frankly, Sydney was a surprise. I didn't expect a wide-open, 24-hour town. The people are quite friendly, more so than in other big cities, and the rich history of Sydney should keep a traveler well occupied in its numerous museums. And, of course, there are always the attractions of 30 beaches and the many fun places to hang out and pass the time. Something is always going on because Australians do love to celebrate practically anything at anytime. All of which makes Sydney a new favorite of mine and I certainly hope I'll have occasion to return soon.

FACTS AND INFORMATION
In General
Sydney, with a population of four million, is the largest city on the fifth continent. In 1788, the first settlement was established in Port Jackson, later renamed Sydney Cove, on the east coast of Australia. Today this city is a cosmopolitan pearl on the Pacific Ocean. Sydney is a busy town, open 24/7, but the attitude is less stressed and more carefree than seems to be the case in most large cities. After work, all types of professionals gather in the bars and coffee shops for a nice chat and a drink. If you're fond of ordering beer but wish to remain incognito, don't choose either Fosters or Steinlager. Why? Because it's a clear signal you're a puny American. Only Americans drink the Fosters, and it has the same reputation as Bud among hardcore hopheads. The Aussis say it's made for wimps. As for Steinlager, it comes from New Zealand and the Kiwis and Australians aren't really the best of friends.

Cultural highlights include the Sydney Opera House and plenty of museums – The Museum of Sydney, The Sydney Jewish Museum, The Powerhouse Museum, or The National Maritime Museum, notable as the homeport for HMB Endeavour, a replica of the vessel that charted Australia's east cost in 1770 with Captain Cook in command.

Landward, Sydney is virtually surrounded by national parks and intact bush land. A trip through Sydney's parks reveals an astonishing variety of exotic birds. The Rocks and Circular Quay, Darling Harbour, City Centre, and the Botanic Gardens and the Domain are must-visits on a Sydney trip. Reserve at least four days to explore this breathtaking, vivid town. Sydney is also a great place for a strictly educational trip as well as for entertainment and relaxation.

More athletic pursuits run the gamut here, from every imaginable water sport to climbing. Of course, the climbing is a little bit different. Rather than clambering over rocks, the adventurous tourist hasn't completed a visit to Sydney without first climbing the solid steel surface of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. What a view!

If you don't wish to drive in the city on the left-hand side, there are other options for getting around the city and surrounding area. A typical Sydney bus for standard service, the buses of The Bondi & Bay Explorer or The Sydney Explorer which help you get around most efficiently, and a harbor cruise or use of the ferries are other good ways to discover Sydney.

How to Get There
The Pacific and Indian Oceans surround Australia. You'll either fly or schedule plenty of time for a cruise. All major airlines connect with Sydney.

Climate
Mild winters and comfortable temperatures in summer make Sydney a terrific year-round destination.

Food & Lodging
As in every cosmopolitan city you can find international cuisine. And Australian cuisine is certainly special. You might find kangaroo and crocodile on the menu, but for cowards the regular old burger shops are plentiful. International hotel chains or privately owned hotels are easy to find. We recommend staying in the city because there are so many things to do within walking distance.

Money & Prices
Living expenses are somewhat lower than American standards, and another positive is the exchange rate for the Australian dollar. During our trip, it was comparable to the Canadian dollar. Visa and MasterCard are accepted practically everywhere.

Roads & Biking
The streets are in a great shape and well marked. Riding on the left side isn't too difficult, but it can become disconcerting when you come upon the "roundabouts." Australians measure in metric, so don't be confused. The speed limit in towns is 60 km/h (40 miles per hour) and 100 km/h (65 miles per hour) on the highways.

Sightseeing & Shopping
Like I've said, Sydney is a multicultural melting pot. You can find all international makes and brands in the arcades. Bottles of wine or a didgeridoo make nice gifts and souvenirs to bring home. Sydney offers plenty of galleries and museums. And all of the parks and The Botanic Garden are great for casual sightseeing.

Books & Maps

• Australia, Eyewitness Travel Guides
  ISBN 0-7894-35311-4, $ 29.95
• Motorcycling in Australia
  Bear Face Books
  ISBN 0-9586975-2-3 $ 19.80
• Hallwag, Australia 1:4 000 000
  Including the distoguide
  www.hallwag.com

Addresses &Phone Numbers

• Twin Blue Motorcycles Pty Ltd
  28 The Greenway,
  Duffys Forest NSW 2084 Australia,
  phone: 61 2 9468 3647,
  www.twinblue.com