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From New Orleans to Lake Charles: Bikin' in the Bayou
RoadConnections
"Bienvenue!" the festive signs proclaim from the town limits. Only when one rolls closer does the translation "Welcome" appear in its tiny font. A preference for French isn't the only thing unique about this road connection. Traveling from New Orleans to Lake Charles on the swampiest routes in southern Louisiana, I've found out that the roads in Bayou Country are often the only dry spots of land around. That's life in the southernmost parishes. And although my Gold Wing 1800 has touring amenities enough that it practically drives itself, it couldn't possibly blend in here unless it had a rear prop or paddles.
Day One – New Orleans to Grand Isle (140 miles)
For the first leg of my trip I head south from New Orleans on US 90 to LA 1. This is the only road that will take me furthest south in Louisiana, to Grand Isle State Park. I'm warned several times about the law down here where the speed limit is 25 mph. You'll get no sympathy from the patrolman even if you're only going 26 mph, especially with out-of-state plates. This makes LA 1 extremely long and slow-going, but it gives me a chance to soak in the sights and sounds of life on the bayou. The steady, clanging sound of pile drivers can be heard over the hum of the Gold Wing and it reminds me of that dreadful Mardi Gras graveyard scene at the end of Easy Rider. "I don't think they'll make the parish line" runs through my head. Then I recall the fate of George Hanson (Jack Nicholson) and pray for better luck.
Land becomes increasingly spotty as I get closer to Grand Isle. Through the towns of Larose, Cut Off, Galliano, and Golden Meadow, I keep one eye on the speedometer. The deeper I get alongside the widening bayou, the more fishing vessels I see tied to docks beside the road. The bayou begins to seem more like a lake, and fishermen cast their bait from the roadside in the late afternoon. ...
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