Print Article
Shamrock Tour®: Eugene, Oregon
In Willamette Wilderness
"Skinner's Mud Hole" is hardly a name civic boosters would use to attract settlers to a new city. But in 1852 that's what everyone called the township Eugene Franklin Skinner established on the banks of the Willamette. Following his first spring there, when the swollen river had turned the area into a boot-sucking quagmire, Skinner sensibly redrew the town's layout and moved it to higher ground in 1853.
Arriving in Eugene in a chill, late-May downpour, I'm reminded of this historical tidbit as the faithful V-Strom plows through inches of standing water in the dark downtown streets. My search for the Excelsior Inn, near Oregon University, passes several houses draped with sodden yellow-and-green "Go Ducks!" banners. Ducks indeed! I park the Strom and squish my way into the warm, welcoming lobby. The room assigned is equally inviting, and soon I'm revived by a nice hot bath.
The next four days are reserved for explorations of Eugene's environs, out among the Cascade foothills, the Santiam Wilderness and the Coast Range, beyond which some of the prettiest sections of Oregon's Pacific shoreline lie.
Day 1: Bridges too far
The sun makes an early appearance as I load the Strom, but clouds are piling up in the surrounding hills. First stop is Cottage Grove, a small heritage town 18 miles south of Eugene on 99. Blustery crosswinds buffet the bike, inflating my tank bag's rain cover so much it resembles a wayward weather balloon....
For the complete touring article, including facts & information and the map(s), click on the "Buy Article" button below.
Recommended Literature
